{"card_id": "Q1-C01", "question_id": "Q1", "axis_node": {"year": 1981, "event": "巴黎首秀"}, "claim_zh": "1981 年，山本与川久保玲在巴黎发布全黑服装。黑是宣言。", "claim_en": "In 1981 Yohji and Rei Kawakubo showed all-black collections in Paris. Black was a declaration.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/001_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/O135226_ca._1985.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW 开场：黑西装与长裙", "ca.1985 双排扣黑大衣"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/004_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：黑呢与白袖", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}, {"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q1_black/002_fall_2012_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "川久保玲 2012AW：压平的红色大衣", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}], "difference_zh": "山本的黑持续四十年。黑是态度。", "method_quote": {"orig": "大量地使用一般用于丧服的黑色，也被看作是违反常规之举。就我个人来讲，我并没有刻意地与西方审美对立。我只是拿出了自己喜欢的东西。", "zh": null, "source": "《做衣服：破坏时尚》（增补新版），湖南人民出版社", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）"]}
{"card_id": "Q1-C02", "question_id": "Q1", "axis_node": {"year": 1990, "event": "黑色 oversized 语言成熟"}, "claim_zh": "山本的黑是壳，身体在里面。", "claim_en": "Yohji's black is a shell around the body.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/O1131741_ca._2000.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/MGoing.Yamamoto.Cordsen.jpeg"], "evidence_notes": ["连帽长大衣（ca.2000）：帽与腰之间有空气", "1980s 田野黑白照"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/009_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：黑衣贴身", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}, {"creator": "Rick Owens", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/rick-owens/Q1_black/004_fall_2019_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Owens：黑大衣与裸腿", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/rick-owens"}], "difference_zh": "山本的黑把身体收进壳里。", "method_quote": {"orig": "It is my private sensibility. …I stayed in monotone. …I just wanted to show people cut or washed or broken.", "zh": "这是我的私人感受力。……至少我自己，不应该用刺眼的颜色打扰别人的眼睛。所以我停留在单色里。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "Wikimedia Commons", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/rick-owens", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"]}
{"card_id": "Q1-C03", "question_id": "Q1", "axis_node": {"year": 2014, "event": "《做衣服》出版"}, "claim_zh": "黑分三种：褐系、绿系、墨。", "claim_en": "Yohji names three blacks: brown, green, ink.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/002_spring_2026_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2026SS：黑底白刷纹"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/010_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：黑呢", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}, {"creator": "Alexander McQueen", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/alexander-mcqueen/Q2_body/001_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "McQueen：千鸟格", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"}], "difference_zh": "山本的黑分系，有层次。", "method_quote": {"orig": "问：黑色分为几种？答：简单来说分为三种。褐色系中的黑、绿色系中的黑，然后就是墨黑。", "zh": null, "source": "《做衣服：破坏时尚》（增补新版），湖南人民出版社", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"]}
{"card_id": "Q1-C04", "question_id": "Q1", "axis_node": {"year": 2009, "event": "破产年大秀"}, "claim_zh": "2009 年，负债 60 亿日元的品牌发布全黑系列。", "claim_en": "In 2009 the debtor brand showed all black.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/004_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/012_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW：深 V 黑夹克", "2009AW：双排扣与阔腿裤"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/003_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：黑呢套装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}, {"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q7_defiance/009_spring_2024_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "川久保玲 2024：暗红团簇", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}], "difference_zh": "破产之年，主线未降级。", "method_quote": {"orig": "As far as I made up my mind to do it again, I became double strong.", "zh": "一旦下决心重来，我就变得两倍地强。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"]}
{"card_id": "Q2-C01", "question_id": "Q2", "axis_node": {"year": 1983, "event": "解构剪裁确立"}, "claim_zh": "山本在衣服与身体之间留空气。", "claim_en": "Yohji leaves air between body and cloth.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/015_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/O1172067_1983.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW：白色茧形大衣罩黑色内层", "1983 围裹解构（V&A 馆藏）"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Issey Miyake", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/issey-miyake/Q2_body/001_fall_2016_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "三宅一生：褶皱贴合身体", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake"}, {"creator": "Alexander McQueen", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/alexander-mcqueen/Q2_body/004_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "McQueen：束腰剪裁", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"}], "difference_zh": "三宅让衣服贴合身体，McQueen 雕刻身体，山本留出空气。", "method_quote": {"orig": "我的设计一定会让空气在身体和衣服之间微妙地流动。在我设计的服装中，有留白，有'间隔'。", "zh": null, "source": "《做衣服：破坏时尚》（增补新版），湖南人民出版社", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"]}
{"card_id": "Q2-C02", "question_id": "Q2", "axis_node": {"year": 1982, "event": "oversized 引发争议"}, "claim_zh": "山本外扩肩线，身体退出视线。", "claim_en": "Yohji extends the shoulder line; the body exits the view.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/005_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/011_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW：方角短夹克与宽裤", "2009AW：双排扣与巨裤"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/001_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：强肩束腰", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}, {"creator": "Alexander McQueen", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/alexander-mcqueen/Q2_body/007_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "McQueen：浴袍大衣", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"}], "difference_zh": "山本用肩线让身体退场。", "method_quote": {"orig": "相比女人的身体，男人的身体是'已经被许诺的'。而设计女装像一场旅行。", "zh": null, "source": "V&A《男装设计》采访", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"]}
{"card_id": "Q2-C03", "question_id": "Q2", "axis_node": {"year": 1983, "event": "解构成为方法"}, "claim_zh": "山本展示剪裁结果。", "claim_en": "Yohji shows the result of the cut.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/023_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/040_fall_2026_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW：揉皱体积连衣裙", "2026AW：层叠长袍"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Maison Martin Margiela", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/maison-martin-margiela/Q2_body/002_spring_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Margiela：蒙面与白大褂", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"}, {"creator": "Maison Martin Margiela", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/maison-martin-margiela/Q2_body/010_spring_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Margiela：牛仔外套挂在拐杖上", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"}], "difference_zh": "Margiela 展示衣服内部。山本展示剪裁结果。", "method_quote": {"orig": "我们完全背离了欧美的时尚潮流……我并没有刻意地与西方审美对立，我只是拿出了自己喜欢的东西。", "zh": null, "source": "《做衣服：破坏时尚》（增补新版），湖南人民出版社", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2026-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"]}
{"card_id": "Q2-C04", "question_id": "Q2", "axis_node": {"year": 1991, "event": "木片裙等材料实验"}, "claim_zh": "山本用木头做衣服。", "claim_en": "Yohji makes clothes from wood.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/YY_top_gonna_listelli_legno_1991.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q2_body/O1245350_2001.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["1991 木片上衣与裙", "2001 裙撑结构"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Issey Miyake", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/issey-miyake/Q2_body/005_fall_2016_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "三宅一生：褶皱织物", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake"}, {"creator": "Maison Martin Margiela", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/maison-martin-margiela/Q2_body/009_spring_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Margiela：绷带", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"}], "difference_zh": "山本的材料实验在衣服定义之内。木头裙是裙子。", "method_quote": {"orig": "我想，无论时代发展到何种程度，只要有布、剪刀和缝纫机，再加上人的五感，就可以做衣服。", "zh": null, "source": "《做衣服：破坏时尚》（增补新版），湖南人民出版社", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["Wikimedia Commons", "V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"]}
{"card_id": "Q3-C01", "question_id": "Q3", "axis_node": {"year": 1981, "event": "巴黎'时尚地震'"}, "claim_zh": "1981 年，媒体称服装破败。山本接受这个方向。", "claim_en": "In 1981 the press called the clothes ragged. Yohji kept the direction.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/025_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/O1506985_na.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW：红黑垂坠", "揉皱的黑面料：褶皱为版型"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/004_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：黑丝绒大衣", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}, {"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/001_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：白皱领黑呢", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}], "difference_zh": "Mugler 追求完美。山本发布破败。", "method_quote": {"orig": "Many journalists hated us. …Finally, they broke the elevator because of so many of them.", "zh": "很多记者恨我们。只有《解放报》为我们写了精彩的文章。……但（后来）他们涌到我们办公室，最后电梯都被挤坏了。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"]}
{"card_id": "Q3-C02", "question_id": "Q3", "axis_node": {"year": 1982, "event": "'Hiroshima chic'舆论战"}, "claim_zh": "山本不收线头。毛边是设计。", "claim_en": "Yohji leaves threads raw. The frayed hem is design.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/O1782816_2003.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/008_spring_2026_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2003 千鸟格外套：线头垂在门襟", "2026SS：毛边下摆"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/005_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：收净的袖口", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}, {"creator": "Maison Martin Margiela", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/maison-martin-margiela/Q2_body/007_spring_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Margiela：撕扯布片", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"}], "difference_zh": "香奈儿收边。山本留线头。", "method_quote": {"orig": "I just wanted to show people cut or washed or broken, or find something close as raw.", "zh": "我只想要人们看到剪裁、水洗、破坏。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"]}
{"card_id": "Q3-C03", "question_id": "Q3", "axis_node": {"year": 2000, "event": "破坏美学成熟"}, "claim_zh": "山本把漆泼与揉皱放上秀场。", "claim_en": "Yohji puts paint splashes and creases on the runway.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/012_spring_2026_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/009_fall_2000_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2026SS：白漆泼溅印花", "2000AW：黑色流苏长裙"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q1_black/008_fall_2012_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "CDG：红色豹纹茧", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}, {"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/007_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：漆皮裙", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}], "difference_zh": "山本的设计带使用痕迹。", "method_quote": {"orig": "I just wanted to show people cut or washed or broken, or find something close as raw.", "zh": "我只想要人们看到剪裁、水洗、破坏，或者接近生料的东西。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"]}
{"card_id": "Q3-C04", "question_id": "Q3", "axis_node": {"year": 1995, "event": "1990S 结构游戏"}, "claim_zh": "山本用红纱臀垫打断黑色轮廓。", "claim_en": "Yohji cuts the black line with a red tulle bustle.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/O1498866_1995.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["1995 馆藏：黑外套与红纱臀垫"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Alexander McQueen", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/alexander-mcqueen/Q2_body/008_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "McQueen：黑胸衣", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"}, {"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/002_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：束腰", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}], "difference_zh": "McQueen 与 Mugler 收紧身体。山本从背后打断轮廓。", "method_quote": {"orig": "That moment, I was holding my dynamite in my mind.", "zh": "那一刻，我心里握着一枚炸药。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"]}
{"card_id": "Q3-C05", "question_id": "Q3", "axis_node": {"year": 2026, "event": "现在进行时"}, "claim_zh": "红是山本的例外色。", "claim_en": "Red is Yohji's licensed exception.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/023_spring_2026_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/038_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2026SS：暗红格纹裙", "2009AW 终场红大衣"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q1_black/005_fall_2012_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "CDG：红色伞形套", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}, {"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/008_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：红西装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}], "difference_zh": "红在别处按季出现。红在山本这里是事件。", "method_quote": {"orig": "That moment, I was holding my dynamite in my mind.", "zh": "那一刻，我心里握着一枚炸药。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"]}
{"card_id": "Q3-C06", "question_id": "Q3", "axis_node": {"year": 2000, "event": "世纪之交"}, "claim_zh": "山本把毛皮头饰放上优雅长裙。", "claim_en": "Yohji puts fur headpieces on elegant gowns.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/001_fall_2000_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q3_anti_beauty/007_fall_2000_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2000AW：黑裙与毛皮头饰", "2000AW：黑套装配毛绒手袖"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/004_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：圆礼帽", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}, {"creator": "Alexander McQueen", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/alexander-mcqueen/Q2_body/002_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "McQueen：灯罩帽", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"}], "difference_zh": "香奈儿用头饰加冕。山本用头饰破坏庄重。", "method_quote": {"orig": "法式优雅把我们看作世界末日……我只是拿出了自己喜欢的东西。", "zh": null, "source": "《做衣服：破坏时尚》（增补新版），湖南人民出版社", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"]}
{"card_id": "Q4-C01", "question_id": "Q4", "axis_node": {"year": 1972, "event": "创立 Y's"}, "claim_zh": "山本把男装剪裁交给女性身体。", "claim_en": "Yohji gives menswear cuts to women's bodies.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q4_gender/017_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q4_gender/O1245354_2004.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW：白色滚边塔士多", "2004 工装连衣裙"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Ann Demeulemeester", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/ann-demeulemeester/Q4_gender/001_spring_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Ann：黑白骑行夹克，贴身收腰", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester"}, {"creator": "Rick Owens", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/rick-owens/Q4_gender/006_spring_2019_menswear.webp", "note": "Owens：男装裙裤", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens"}], "difference_zh": "Ann 收腰。Owens 改男装。山本给女性男装剪裁。", "method_quote": {"orig": "I was thinking, oh, I won't make something kind of mannish, how to fit for women.", "zh": "在帮母亲做衣服的日子里……我在想，我要做点不带女人腔的东西给女人穿。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens"]}
{"card_id": "Q4-C02", "question_id": "Q4", "axis_node": {"year": 2011, "event": "男装花卉印花季"}, "claim_zh": "山本交换两性服装：女人穿直角，男人穿花。", "claim_en": "Yohji swaps the codes: women take the right angle, men take the flower.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q4_gender/010_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q4_gender/001_spring_2011_menswear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW：男装衬衫式黑夹克", "2011SS 男装：米白花卉西装"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Ann Demeulemeester", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/ann-demeulemeester/Q4_gender/010_spring_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Ann：黑皮夹克与短裙", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester"}, {"creator": "Rick Owens", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/rick-owens/Q4_gender/009_spring_2019_menswear.webp", "note": "Owens：马甲与裙裤", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens"}], "difference_zh": "两性衣柜在山本这里互换。", "method_quote": {"orig": "Women's body is, for me, like desert and the mountains of sand are always changing. …Men's body is already promised. …Designing women's clothing is like a journey.", "zh": "女人的身体像沙漠：风在吹，沙丘永远在变。……男人的身体是'已经被许诺的'。", "source": "V&A《男装设计》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-menswear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens"]}
{"card_id": "Q4-C03", "question_id": "Q4", "axis_node": {"year": 2002, "event": "Y-3 诞生"}, "claim_zh": "Y-3 的中性来自功能。", "claim_en": "Y-3's neutrality comes from function.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q4_gender/Y3_FW2010_031.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q4_gender/Y3_FW2010_018.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["Y-3：藏青拉链夹克", "Y-3：绿色围裹与工装裤"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Rick Owens", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/rick-owens/Q4_gender/004_spring_2019_menswear.webp", "note": "Owens：白夹克与裸身", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens"}, {"creator": "Ann Demeulemeester", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/ann-demeulemeester/Q4_gender/005_spring_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Ann：白色垂坠西装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester"}], "difference_zh": "Y-3 的中性来自功能，不来自姿态。", "method_quote": {"orig": "So from my side, directly, we made a phone call to Adidas company.", "zh": "我从我这边，直接给阿迪达斯打了个电话。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["V0 存档：Y-3 Fall-Winter 2010（Vogue Runway）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester"]}
{"card_id": "Q4-C04", "question_id": "Q4", "axis_node": {"year": 1943, "event": "战后东京：母亲的洋装店"}, "claim_zh": "山本的性别观来自母亲。", "claim_en": "Yohji's view of gender comes from his mother.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/_BIO/Yohji_Yamamoto_NYFW_Feb2010.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q4_gender/Yohji_Yamamoto_wool_suit_c1990.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["2010 年肖像：黑帽黑衣", "c.1990 男装羊毛套装"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/006_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：小黑裙", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}], "difference_zh": "香奈儿解放女性进入优雅。山本解放女性离开取悦。", "method_quote": {"orig": "在帮母亲做衣服的日子里，那些定制品都无趣、性感、华丽、女人味十足，我不喜欢。", "zh": null, "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["Wikimedia Commons", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"]}
{"card_id": "Q5-C01", "question_id": "Q5", "axis_node": {"year": 2009, "event": "负债 60 亿日元、民事再生"}, "claim_zh": "山本在破产里保住语言。", "claim_en": "Yohji kept the language through bankruptcy.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/027_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q1_black/012_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2009AW 压轴红裙", "2009AW 全黑双排扣"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/010_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：黑呢套装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}, {"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q7_defiance/008_spring_2024_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "川久保玲：观念装置", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}], "difference_zh": "山本在破产里保住语言。", "method_quote": {"orig": "But my daughter, she shouted, don't finish now. We start again. …So finally, I accepted chapter 11.", "zh": "我女儿吼道：现在不许结束。我们重新开始。……一旦下决心重来，我就变得两倍地强。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"]}
{"card_id": "Q5-C02", "question_id": "Q5", "axis_node": {"year": 2002, "event": "Y-3 首秀"}, "claim_zh": "山本给阿迪达斯打电话，成立 Y-3。", "claim_en": "Yohji phoned Adidas and founded Y-3.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/Y3_FW2010_012.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/Y3_FW2010_119.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["Y-3：大衣与运动鞋", "Y-3：标语卫衣裙"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Issey Miyake", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/issey-miyake/Q2_body/004_fall_2016_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "三宅一生：褶皱技术", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake"}, {"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/002_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：鞋履配件", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}], "difference_zh": "山本用 Y-3 走向人流，主线不动。", "method_quote": {"orig": "Who is wearing my creation? I can't find people who are wearing my outfit in the street. Maybe in the museum. …So from my side, directly, we made a phone call to Adidas.", "zh": "谁在穿我的作品？街上找不到……我很不安。和球鞋一起工作一定很有意思。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["V0 存档：Y-3 Fall-Winter 2010（Vogue Runway）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"]}
{"card_id": "Q5-C03", "question_id": "Q5", "axis_node": {"year": 2017, "event": "BoF 采访自述"}, "claim_zh": "山本不走主流。", "claim_en": "Yohji skips the mainstream.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/004_spring_2022_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/Y3_FW2010_110.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["2022SS：黑色垂坠", "Y-3 群像终场"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q7_defiance/001_spring_2024_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "CDG 2024：观念装置", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}], "difference_zh": "主流把反叛策展化。山本留在侧街。", "method_quote": {"orig": "I'm not walking in the mainstream. I'm walking in the side street, side, dark street. It is quite comfortable. If I joined the mainstream, maybe I was killed.", "zh": "我不走主流。我走在小街上、暗街上，那里相当舒服。如果我加入主流，也许早就被杀死了。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "V0 存档：Y-3 Fall-Winter 2010（Vogue Runway）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"]}
{"card_id": "Q5-C04", "question_id": "Q5", "axis_node": {"year": 2010, "event": "清偿完毕、东京男装回归"}, "claim_zh": "FEMME 卖剪裁，Y-3 卖语言使用权。", "claim_en": "FEMME sells the cut; Y-3 licenses the language.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/Y3_FW2010_110.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/027_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["Y-3 群像", "FEMME 破产年红裙"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Issey Miyake", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/issey-miyake/Q2_body/007_fall_2016_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "三宅一生：褶皱技术", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake"}, {"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/009_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：套装制度", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}], "difference_zh": "Y-3 是唯一的出口。", "method_quote": {"orig": "I had to think about my company, people's life. …I'm very far from mass production.", "zh": "我必须顾及公司里那些人的生活。……我离批量生产很远。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访；V&A《男装设计》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["V0 存档：Y-3 Fall-Winter 2010（Vogue Runway）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"]}
{"card_id": "Q6-C01", "question_id": "Q6", "axis_node": {"year": 2011, "event": "伦敦 V&A 回顾展"}, "claim_zh": "山本按建筑标准做衣服：能存续数百年。", "claim_en": "Yohji builds clothes by a building standard: centuries.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/O1193215_1994-99.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/YY_giacca_gonna_lana_seta_2003-04.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["1994-99 拼贴口袋衬衫", "2003-04 羊毛真丝套装"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Maison Martin Margiela", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/maison-martin-margiela/Q2_body/004_spring_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Margiela：白大褂", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"}, {"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/007_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：黑呢套装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}], "difference_zh": "山本的工艺按年计量，不按季。", "method_quote": {"orig": "工匠认准木料，能够建造出可以存续数百年之久的建筑物。我做衣服也抱持着同样的态度。", "zh": null, "source": "《做衣服：破坏时尚》（增补新版），湖南人民出版社", "link": "../06_SUPPORTING_ARCHIVE/书籍副本/山本耀司-做衣服-增补版-中文版.pdf", "label": "书籍 PDF ·《做衣服》增补新版", "web": null}, "sources": ["V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "Wikimedia Commons", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"]}
{"card_id": "Q6-C02", "question_id": "Q6", "axis_node": {"year": 2011, "event": "V&A 回顾展开幕"}, "claim_zh": "2011 年，山本活着走进 V&A。", "claim_en": "In 2011 Yohji entered the V&A alive.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/006_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/009_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2011AW：黑纱大摆", "2011AW：中长黑大衣"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Alexander McQueen", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/alexander-mcqueen/Q2_body/001_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "McQueen：Savage Beauty（2011）", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen"}, {"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/003_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：品牌圣殿", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}], "difference_zh": "回顾展当年，新系列发布。", "method_quote": {"orig": "My most gorgeous moment is creating, growing. So in that meaning, I'm very lucky and a happy man.", "zh": "我最华丽的时刻是创造、是生长。", "source": "V&A《男装设计》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"]}
{"card_id": "Q6-C03", "question_id": "Q6", "axis_node": {"year": 2002, "event": "Y's 白 T 恤进馆藏"}, "claim_zh": "白 T 恤进博物馆。", "claim_en": "A white tee enters the museum.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/O1193478_1997.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/O1135592_2002.jpg"], "evidence_notes": ["1997 白色 oversized 衬衫", "2002 白色 Y's T 恤"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/005_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：漆皮套装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}, {"creator": "Issey Miyake", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/issey-miyake/Q2_body/001_fall_2016_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "三宅一生：褶皱", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake"}], "difference_zh": "山本的耐久靠剪裁。", "method_quote": {"orig": "I have still people who understand my thinking and buy my clothing. And I have to answer to them.", "zh": "我有仍然理解我的思考并购买我衣服的人。我必须对他们负责。", "source": "V&A《男装设计》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake"]}
{"card_id": "Q6-C04", "question_id": "Q6", "axis_node": {"year": 1989, "event": "文德斯纪录片《城市与时装的影像笔记》"}, "claim_zh": "山本的工作室信手指。", "claim_en": "The studio trusts fingers.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/detail_Yohji_Yamamoto_dress.jpg", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q6_craft_time/002_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["刺绣细节", "2011AW 印花雪纺"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Issey Miyake", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/issey-miyake/Q2_body/010_fall_2016_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "三宅一生：机器与工程", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake"}, {"creator": "Maison Martin Margiela", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/maison-martin-margiela/Q2_body/003_spring_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Margiela：手持布料", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"}], "difference_zh": "三宅用机器。山本用手指。", "method_quote": {"orig": "If you really want to see real thing, real beauty, you have to go there by walking. And go there and touch it and smell it. …If you want to create something, you need real excitement, emotion, not a superficial vision.", "zh": "如果你真想看到真实的物、真实的美，你必须走过去，亲手摸到它、闻到它。……否则你得不到真实的情感。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "V&A Museum API（服饰实物馆藏）", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/maison-martin-margiela"]}
{"card_id": "Q7-C01", "question_id": "Q7", "axis_node": {"year": 2026, "event": "FEMME 2026 秋冬发布"}, "claim_zh": "2026 年，80 岁的山本发布 1981 年的语言。", "claim_en": "In 2026, at eighty, Yohji shows the language of 1981.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/047_fall_2026_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/044_fall_2026_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2026AW 谢幕：作者与作品同框", "2026AW：羽发与层叠黑袍"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q7_defiance/003_spring_2024_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "川久保玲 2024：雕塑服装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}, {"creator": "Rick Owens", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/rick-owens/Q1_black/002_fall_2019_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Owens：削肩黑西装", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/rick-owens"}], "difference_zh": "同代人转向观念。山本保持可穿。", "method_quote": {"orig": "Like a very old man, I'm saying that beautiful things are disappearing every day. Look at them. Keep them.", "zh": "像一个老人，我要说：美的东西每天都在消失。看着它们，留住它们。", "source": "V&A《男装设计》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2026-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/rick-owens"]}
{"card_id": "Q7-C02", "question_id": "Q7", "axis_node": {"year": 2022, "event": "WILDSIDE 启动之年"}, "claim_zh": "山本的反叛对象是时代速度。", "claim_en": "Yohji's rebellion targets the speed of the age.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/015_spring_2022_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/002_spring_2022_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2022SS：双排扣短裙套装", "2022SS：不对称黑裙"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Chanel", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/chanel/Q1_black/006_fall_2009_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "香奈儿：重复代码", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel"}, {"creator": "Mugler", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/mugler/Q3_anti_beauty/010_fall_2011_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Mugler：季季新造型", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"}], "difference_zh": "山本重复 1980 年代的剪裁。重复是立场。", "method_quote": {"orig": "Beautiful things are disappearing every day. Look at them. Keep them. Be careful. Don't go too fast. Look back.", "zh": "美的东西每天都在消失。看着它们，留住它们。当心。别走太快，回头看看。", "source": "V&A《男装设计》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/chanel", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/mugler"]}
{"card_id": "Q7-C03", "question_id": "Q7", "axis_node": {"year": 2024, "event": "巴黎—东京双城体制"}, "claim_zh": "山本用重复拒绝变节。", "claim_en": "Yohji refuses betrayal through repetition.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/007_spring_2026_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/021_spring_2022_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2026SS：流苏长裙", "2022SS 群像"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Rick Owens", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/rick-owens/Q4_gender/010_spring_2019_menswear.webp", "note": "Owens：赤膊与围裹裙", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens"}, {"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q7_defiance/009_spring_2024_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "CDG：暗红团簇", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}], "difference_zh": "山本重复 1981。", "method_quote": {"orig": "I'm not walking in the mainstream. I'm walking in the side street, side, dark street. It is quite comfortable. If I joined the mainstream, maybe I was killed.", "zh": "我不走主流……如果我加入主流，也许早就被杀死了。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/rick-owens", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"]}
{"card_id": "Q7-C04", "question_id": "Q7", "axis_node": {"year": 2022, "event": "WILDSIDE 与 Y-3 并行"}, "claim_zh": "山本在晚年提纯黑。", "claim_en": "In his late years Yohji purifies black.", "evidence": ["02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q7_defiance/010_spring_2022_ready_to_wear.webp", "02_YOHJI_EVIDENCE/Q5_creation_vs_commerce/004_spring_2022_ready_to_wear.webp"], "evidence_notes": ["2022SS：撕口层叠", "2022SS：黑色垂坠"], "comparison": [{"creator": "Comme des Garçons", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/comme-des-garcons/Q7_defiance/004_spring_2024_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "CDG：黄蓝头盔与织锦", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons"}, {"creator": "Rick Owens", "image": "03_COMPARATIVE_CREATORS/rick-owens/Q1_black/009_fall_2019_ready_to_wear.webp", "note": "Owens：芥末黄夹克", "source": "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/rick-owens"}], "difference_zh": "同代人放进颜色。山本提纯黑。", "method_quote": {"orig": "As far as I made up my mind to do it again, I became double strong.", "zh": "一旦下决心重来，我就变得两倍地强。", "source": "The Business of Fashion《时尚哲学》采访", "link": "../08_VIDEO/VA采访_男装设计_7min/原片.mp4", "label": "视频 · V&A 专访（本地）", "web": null}, "sources": ["https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/yohji-yamamoto", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons", "https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/rick-owens"]}