档案

"I was the first to soften the image of men, and harden the image of women. I dressed men in women's fabrics, and stole from men what women wanted and needed—the power suit."

我是最先让男人的形象变柔软、让女人的形象变坚硬的人。我把女人的面料穿到男人身上，又从男人那里拿走了女人想要、也需要的东西——权力套装。

—— Encyclopaedia Britannica「Giorgio Armani」条目

来源 ↗

""Life is a movie," Armani has said, "and my clothes are the costumes.""

"人生是一部电影，"阿玛尼说过，"而我的衣服就是戏服。"

—— Vogue〈The Armani Edge〉，Tad Friend（1992；官网存档 2024-10-13）

来源 ↗

"They label me the classic designer, but if you look at my clothes, they break every classic rule. On a classic jacket the shoulders fit, the waist is marked, it hits the breasts—my jackets don't do any of that."

他们叫我经典设计师，可我的衣服打破每一条经典规则。经典外套肩要合体、腰要收、要顶住胸部——我的外套这些都不做。

—— Vogue〈The Armani Edge〉，Tad Friend（1992；官网存档 2024-10-13）

来源 ↗

"The eighties shoulder was a woman's manager. Now she doesn't need to tell anybody what she is. She is."

八十年代的肩膀是女人的"经理"。现在她不需要告诉任何人她是什么。她就是。

—— Vogue〈The Armani Edge〉，Tad Friend（1992；官网存档 2024-10-13）

来源 ↗

"I love to put masculine outfits on glamorous, made-up women, and then give masculine or androgynous-looking girls clothes that don't belong to them, feminine clothes. The contrast is important, otherwise you get an Armani caricature."

我喜欢把男装穿在华丽、妆容精致的女子身上，再给中性模样的女孩她们"不相配"的阴柔女装。对比是重要的，否则你会得到一幅"阿玛尼漫画"。

—— Vogue〈The Armani Edge〉，Tad Friend（1992；官网存档 2024-10-13）

来源 ↗

"In fashion, everything has been done. The only challenge now is new associations of the same elements—ties, stretch pants, the jackets. It's the way they mix."

在时尚里，一切都被做过了。现在唯一的挑战是把同样的元素做新的组合——领带、弹力裤、外套。全在于怎么混搭。

—— Vogue〈The Armani Edge〉，Tad Friend（1992；官网存档 2024-10-13）

来源 ↗

"Now, with the Berlin Wall down, it would be offensive to make clothes that are screaming with luxury, screaming with opulence."

如今柏林墙倒了，再去做尖叫着奢华、尖叫着豪阔的衣服，就是冒犯。

—— Vogue〈The Armani Edge〉，Tad Friend（1992；官网存档 2024-10-13）

来源 ↗

"…una giacca decostruita, non impettita, una giacca che potesse permettere di rimuoversi con molto disinvoltura."

……一件解构的、不撑胸的外套，一件让人能非常自如地活动的外套。

—— 《Made in Milan》（1990，斯科塞斯）[00:09:56]

转录文本 ↓

"Il risultato di tutto questo è una femminità nuova che ha stupito l'uomo e lo ha fatto guardare la donna con una nuova curiosità."

这一切的结果是一种新的女性气质，它让男人吃惊，让男人带着新的好奇打量女人。

—— 《Made in Milan》（1990，斯科塞斯）[00:10:45]

转录文本 ↓

"Io non ho mai voluto, non ho mai perseguito il successo, mi ha capitato fra cap e collo trovandomi anche impreparato."

我从来没有想要过、从来没有追求过成功，它猝不及防地落到我头上，让我措手不及。

—— Enzo Biagi 电视专访（1983，RAI）[00:01:57]

转录文本 ↓