1905-1957 · 1946 年创立 Dior 时装屋(30 Avenue Montaigne)生平大事记与事实裁决:01_背调/PROFILE.md ↗

“In December 1946, as a result of the war and uniforms, women still looked and dressed like Amazons. But I designed clothes for flowerlike women, with rounded shoulders, full feminine busts, and hand-span waists above enormous spreading skirts.”
一九四六年十二月,因为战争和制服,女人看上去、穿起来都还像亚马逊女战士。但我为花一样的女人设计衣服:圆润的肩,丰满的女性胸线,还有巨大铺展的裙摆上方一掌宽的腰。
—— Christian Dior《Dior by Dior》(V&A 2018 版印刷页 24)
“The most important feature of my life — I would be both ungrateful and untruthful if I failed to acknowledge it immediately — has been my good luck; and I must also acknowledge my debt to the fortune-tellers who have predicted it.”
我人生中最重要的东西——如果我不立刻承认它,我便既忘恩又不诚实——是我的好运;我也必须承认,我欠那些预言了它的占卜师的债。
—— Christian Dior《Dior by Dior》第一章开篇(V&A 2018)
“I stressed two principal silhouettes — the Corolla and the figure S. These long skirts, emphasized waists, and tremendously feminine fashions were instantly baptized the New Look.”
我在新闻稿里强调了两个主要廓形——花冠(Corolla)与 S 形。这些长裙、被强调的腰身,和极具女性气质的时装,即刻被施洗为「新风貌」(New Look)。
—— Christian Dior《Dior by Dior》(V&A 2018 版印刷页 151)
“It is one of the great secrets of haute couture that a well-cut dress is the dress which contains the least cuts.”
高级定制的大秘密之一:剪裁得好的裙子,是所含剪口最少的裙子。
—— Christian Dior《Dior by Dior》(V&A 2018 版印刷页 82-83)
“Little by little, the fitting gets under way. Balances are rectified, proportions adjusted.”
试衣一步步开始。平衡被修正,比例被调整。
—— Christian Dior《Dior by Dior》(V&A 2018 版印刷页 83)
“I think that in town you cannot be really dressed without a hat.”
我想在城里,不戴帽子就算不上真正穿好了衣服。
—— Christian Dior《The Little Dictionary of Fashion》Hats 词条(1954 首版;V&A 2007 再版)
“It is the colour of happiness and of femininity.”
它是幸福与女性气质的颜色。(谈粉色)
—— Christian Dior《The Little Dictionary of Fashion》Pink 词条
“Black The most popular and the most convenient and the most elegant of all colours. And I say colour on purpose, because black may be sometimes just as striking as a colour.”
黑色是一切颜色里最流行、最方便、也最优雅的颜色。我特意说“颜色”,因为黑色有时可以像彩色一样醒目。
—— Christian Dior《The Little Dictionary of Fashion》Black 词条
“Robert Piguet taught me that a garment is about fabric, colors, shapes, and the woman living inside it — and that fittings are what truly matter. He taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come.”
Robert Piguet 教会我:衣服关乎面料、色彩、廓形,以及住在里面的女人——试衣才真正要紧。他教我以简约成就真正的优雅。
—— Christian Dior,转引自 en.wikipedia 人物条目引 Marie-France Pochna 传记(01_背调/sources/wiki_en_christian_dior.txt 第 68 行)
“'You will suffer poverty,' she said. 'But women are lucky for you, and through them you will achieve success. You will make a great deal of money out of them, and you will have to travel widely.'”
「你会受穷,」她说,「但女人对你有好运,你将经由她们获得成功。你会从她们身上赚很多钱,而且你将不得不远行。」(1919 年第一次算命)
—— Christian Dior《Dior by Dior》第一章(V&A 2018)
“In 1955 alone, more than 1,000 subscribers procured about 300 models from the collections of the principal French couturiers. One hundred and forty-two of my own models figured in the album, of which 57 were exact copies.”
仅 1955 年一年,就有 1000 多名订户从巴黎主要高级定制师的收藏里购得约 300 个款式的图册。我自己的 142 个款式出现在那本图册里,其中 57 个是毫不走样的复刻。
—— Christian Dior,转引自 en.wikipedia 人物条目引 Newsweek(01_背调/sources/wiki_en_christian_dior.txt 第 83 行)